Sunday, September 15, 2013

another shirt

I made another shirt for Eli out of one of Kirk's old shirts.

Proof that the shirt used to fit his dad. This was taken in 2010 at Crater Lake.

 I added a pocket with a button/placket detail for interest. 
It's my favorite part of the shirt.

 I used part of the existing back yoke so I wouldn't have to do any matching of the plaid.

 I may have a small problem with the collar. It kind of sticks out funny. I changed the shape of this collar from the original pattern (Simplicity 7780) so it wouldn't have a 70s vibe like the last shirt I made. I also did some top-stitching around the edge of the collar, which may be what is making it want to curl. I kind of forced the seam line (that joins the front collar and the back collar together) to the underside as I was top-stitching. I'm pretty sure that's what caused the problem. I either need to take out the top-stitching or add a couple of tiny buttons at the point of each collar to keep it down.
I like the fit of this shirt much better than the last one. I altered the pattern a bit and took out some of the shoulder-width so it would fit him better. I wanted the inside to look nice as well, so I used this tutorial from Handmade by Carolyn to make a flat-felled split seam in the side seams.

Here's how I did the collar this time.
 I doubled up on the interfacing where the collar stand should be so it wouldn't flop down like the last shirt. Then I added two rows of stitching to make sure the interfacing won't curl up inside once it goes through the washer and drier a few times.

 After stitching the front and back collar pieces together, I went to the points of the collar and sewed a straight line over the tip of each point and then clipped it close. I heard once that doing this will actually make the point more accurate and sharp once you turn it right side out. It seems to work well.

This is the tool I use to turn the collar and make the points look sharp.

 There's less chance of poking a hole through the point when I use this tool. I'm kind of a sucker for gadgets, so I like having it around. I can't remember what it's called or where I got it, though.

I read somewhere on the internetz that you should use a tailor's ham when you press your collars. It will give the collar a better shape. After all, nobody's neck looks like an ironing board. I hope that explanation helps, Rishi. Maybe it will make collars seem less daunting. They're really not so bad. Just watch the top-stitching around the points of the collar to avoid curling.
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